Discover the Soul of Kanazawa: Unagi and Omicho Market in Summer
- In Kanazawa House
- 5 days ago
- 3 min read
A Cultural and Culinary Journey through Kanazawa’s Historic Market during Doyo no Ushi no Hi
1.Introduction: A Taste of Kanazawa in Summer
Kanazawa, the cultural jewel of Japan's Hokuriku region, offers more than just temples, geisha districts, and museums. It also holds a deep-rooted culinary tradition tied to the land, sea, and seasons. One of the most beloved summer delicacies in Japan—unagi, or grilled freshwater eel—takes center stage during Doyo no Ushi no Hi, or the “Midsummer Day of the Ox.” And there’s no better place to explore this tradition than Omicho Market, Kanazawa’s bustling seafood and street food paradise.
Whether you're a gourmet traveler, a culture lover, or someone just looking for a unique bite in Japan, this guide takes you through the history, flavors, and stories behind Kanazawa’s eel tradition and the market that brings it to life.
2. What is Doyo no Ushi no Hi?
“Doyo no Ushi no Hi” usually falls in late July. The phrase literally means "the Ox Day of Doyo," based on the ancient Chinese zodiac calendar. On this particular day, it is customary in Japan to eat unagi (eel) to prevent “natsubate,” or summer fatigue. Eel is packed with vitamins A, B1, B2, D, and E, making it an energy-boosting dish perfect for enduring the heat of summer.
While this custom is celebrated all over Japan, the experience in Kanazawa is extra special due to its long-standing culinary reputation, proximity to rich eel farming areas, and the cultural atmosphere that surrounds Omicho Market.
3. Omicho Market: The Kitchen of Kanazawa
Established over 300 years ago, Omicho Market is known as “Kanazawa’s Kitchen.” It originally served the Maeda samurai clan, supplying fresh seafood and vegetables. Today, it continues to provide locals and visitors with the freshest produce, fish, and prepared dishes.
You’ll find over 180 stalls and restaurants within the market. From sushi and sashimi to fruit parfaits and deep-fried croquettes, Omicho is a feast for all senses.
But come late July, the scent of charcoal-grilled unagi fills the air, marking the arrival of Doyo no Ushi no Hi.
4. Unagi: A Culinary Art in Kanazawa
Unagi is not native to Kanazawa, but the region has embraced it wholeheartedly. Many vendors in Omicho Market source their eels from Lake Hamana in Shizuoka or local Ishikawa sources and prepare them in the Kanto style (steamed then grilled) or Kansai style (grilled directly).
What distinguishes Kanazawa’s approach is the focus on craftsmanship and presentation, drawing from the city’s samurai and tea ceremony heritage.
5. Top Spots for Unagi in Omicho Market
Miyamura: A Family-Run Hidden Gem in Omicho Market
Miyamura is a small, humble shop in Omicho Market run by just five family members. Despite its size, it offers an exceptional selection of delicacies, including:
Grilled Unagi (eel kabayaki)
Grilled Dojo (loach)
Locally-caught crab (snow crab, female kobako-gani, hairy crab)
Local shrimp varieties (sweet shrimp, white shrimp, and shima ebi)
Their eel and loach are always purchased live, then prepared entirely in-house—from cleaning and skewering to grilling over charcoal. Even their signature kabayaki sauce is made from scratch using carefully selected ingredients. Unlike other shops or supermarkets in the area, Miyamura’s prices may not be the lowest—but that’s because every step, from sourcing wild domestic loach to grilling over charcoal, demands time, care, and cost.
Kawaki Shoten: The Oldest Crab and Eel Specialist in Omicho Market
Kawaki Shoten is the longest-established crab and eel specialty shop in Omicho Market, with a reputation built on generations of craftsmanship and trust.
This shop specializes in two delicacies: crab and eel. Their crabs are boiled fresh on-site, and their eel and loach (dojo) are grilled over charcoal, served hot and perfectly caramelized. Seasonal seafood is always available depending on the time of year, ensuring the freshest possible experience.
In addition to fresh items, Kawaki also offers:
Nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch)
Seasonal fish prepared as ichiyaboshi (lightly salted, overnight-dried fish)
Vacuum-packed seafood sets, ideal as gifts for special occasions such as summer and winter gift-giving (Ochugen and Oseibo).
Sugimoto Suisan: Kanazawa’s Trusted Name in Unagi
In Kanazawa, when locals think of eel, they think of Sugimoto Suisan. For generations, this beloved shop has been a household favorite, known for its dedication to quality and tradition.
Sugimoto sources only the finest live eels from long-standing, trusted aquaculture partners across Japan, especially from Aichi Prefecture—one of Japan’s most renowned eel-producing regions. Every morning, before sunrise, preparation begins at their headquarters to ensure the freshest kabayaki (grilled eel) reaches the shop each day.
